THE TRUTH About OXIDATION in BEER & 16 Ways to PREVENT IT



Got an oxidized NEIPA? Well, there’s a lot that might be responsible for that! In this video, I’m gonna give you ALL the tips to prevent this from happening to you in the future!
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0:00 Intro and Welcome
1:01 Why is oxidation bad?
2:27 If oxygen is bad why do you add it during brew day?
3:41 How does oxidation happen?
3:59 Is hot side aeration real?
7:08 How to prevent oxidation – hot side
9:28 How to prevent oxidation – cold side

#oxidation #NEIPA #prevention #hazy #IPA #hot #side #aeration #oxidized #brewing #beer #homebrew

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26 comments

  1. I made a Neipa a year ago. I did two dry hopping additions 3 and 7 days out. After it had carbonated, about three days later, it turned brown with a slight nail polish aftertaste. It's the worst beer I've ever had. I recently opened one of the bottles I kept, and the beer was crystal clear yellow (I guess because the hop matter fell out?) but still with the nail polish off flavor.

  2. Great video. I have been suffering with beer not tasting bad but going brown during cold crash. I had no idea it could be the cold crash itself causing that. Will bottle this time without cold crash and see if it makes a difference. Thanks

  3. Don’t brew beer like its wine, racking canes, bottling wands etc all dandy for wine and some beer styles but not hoppy IPA’s or delicate lagers , use sealed vessels, purge lines, wort should only be oxygenated once in its life, treat wort with kid gloves and beer should never see oxygen ever until it goes in the glass, most new homebrewers focus on “infections” too much which is rare with good sanitation practices, should shift their focus on not oxidizing their beer, its a more common way to ruin your beer yet its overlooked

  4. I find that when homebrewing, you can basically yolo your brewday and wont affect the end result too much. (Still keeping everything clean)
    But batch size and pro brewing you obviously cant.

  5. As a professional and home brewer here is my set up at home:
    1. I do not care about hot side aeration. The dissolved oxygen in mash and boil are very low. Until you solved everything on the cold side, this is not your #1 issue.
    2. I ferment in 30 l stainless steel kegs. A float tube takes the beer from the surface. The main fermentaion is with an open valve on the CO2 side. Then I add dryhopping and 200g sugar. Put on the lid, clamp and spunding valve. Pressure according to temperature and CO2 level. If not dry hopped I may have the spunding valve from the very start.
    3. Cold crash under pressure.
    4. If transfered to a keg, just clean and evacuate the other keg. Put a beer to beer line between the kegs and the spunding valve on the receiving keg. Put a bar on the fermenter. Let the beer slowly over. Adjust the pressure.
    5. If bottling, I use a counter pressure filler directly from the fermenter. Flush the bottle, fill it and cap on foam.
    6. I have the opportunity to check my beers on an expensive professional analyzer from Anton Paar. Few homebrewers can do that. I normally get oxygen levels at 0,1 ppm, but sometimes as low as 0,05 ppm. I have got up to 0,2 ppm, but I haven't had any oxidation problems.

    I am aware I have opportunities to take my homebrewing to a high level, and some equipment are expensive, but there is alot you can do for little extra.

  6. Steve, thanks for the great video. I have only recently heard about hot side oxidation. My standard practice has been to stir the heck out of the wort during the chill to facilitate cooling and now I wonder if that might not be such a good idea.
    In 2021, I used your link to get the rare earth magnets for dry hopping. When I checked your Amazon link again I noticed that you now have the silicone sous vide magnets. Are the metallic ones that you previously linked potentially able to corrode?

  7. Thanks for the video, Steve. I hadn't heard about hot side oxidation until recently and it has been standard practice for me to use my mash paddle to stir the heck out of the wort while chilling to facilitate more rapid cooling. This is usually about 20 minutes of vigorous stirring. Although the Brulosophy podcast reported that the hot side aerated beer wasn't statistically significant, I wonder if the way I've been doing things might be affecting my beer?
    In 2021 I used your amazon link to pick up the rare earth magnets for dry hopping and I went back to your link and saw that you've got the silicone sou vide magnets. Are the metallic ones that were previously linked not good to use because corrosion?

  8. Topic is still overrated imo … Oxidation was not spoken about or b|tched about up until the NEIPA craze stuck it's head out … and suddenly homebrewers became weird people. 😜

  9. Another little tip – when sanitising your keg prior to packaging, use Sodium Metabisulphate (Na2S2O5) as the sterilising agent. Na2S2O5 is an excellent oxygen scavenger and the tiny bit of steriliser remaining in the keg after being cleared with CO2 will deal with any O2 sneaking in through the closed (or partial closed) transfer.

  10. I remember not knowing anything about oxidation in my early days 😓… once understood and mastered it makes a major difference in the final beer, Excellent and thorough video!

  11. Good content, but the over-editing is killin' me. Hard cuts after every sentence (or more frequently, in some cases) make it so hard to watch. Good content but man, just let it roll.

  12. Nice summary of a lot of info! I do same transferring fermenter to keg. Push out sanitizer with CO2 (at about 2psi). But I do then connect the 'in' post of the keg to the head space of the fermenter. That little bit of pressure is enough to get the siphon started either from the floating dip tube if fermenting in a keg, or thru the racking cane if in a carboy (I use one of those plastic carboy caps with a carbonation cap in one opening and the racking cane in the other). Getting away from carboys though. I like the new CHS 6.5 gal fermenting kegs, but I started using 6 gal Torpedo's with success at a lower price point. One other thought for you, next 'you might be a homebrewer if' merch idea: "You or someone you know has failed at pronouncing kveik". Cheers!

  13. Regarding hot side aeration, our understanding is that hot side aeration is only a potential issue after the boil because the boil will more or less eliminate all traces of o2. So the spray valve foaming before the boil is a non issue. Unless you use it after the boil for some reason. And I’m not sure why anyone would.

  14. Nice lots of info. I normally don't bottle my beer unless I give it away to friends and relatives. Currently using my Vessi Counter Pressure Filler and also a Tapcooler Counter Pressure aswell for the onesies and twosies. Love them both. Both used on my Keezer.

  15. Hey man, I’ve tried the filling keg with starsan and pushing out with co2, then hooking up hose from fermenter to out port in keg, and hose from in port of keg to top of fermenter, but beer gets stuck and doesn’t flow into keg. Has that ever happened to you?

  16. I have an Anvil foundry and Anvil bucket fermenter I do 3 gallon batches. I’m currently fermenting a Mexican Cerveza and want it to be clear I did put whirlfloc tablet at the end of the boIl. I saw someone put a balloon on the stopper to capture CO2 then put it in the fridge to cold crash and it drew it back in. Do you think this is a good method? Do I even need to cold crash? Im still bottling and haven’t moved to kegs yet.

  17. For IPA, adding a little bit of metabisulfite with the last dry hop, and a little bit more with the gelatin (clearing) works great for me. Same for NEIPAS, without the gelatin if you´re hazecrazy. I use a smidge of metabisulfite with most of my beer after kegging, just make sure they´re cleaned up, (actually, metabisulfite is not the yeast killed many thinks, you can fermet stuff treated with it just fine – just takes a little more time).

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